How do you improve something that is already a classic? That is the question Omega has faced ever since the Speedmaster became one of the world's most recognizable watches. Their approach, like Rolex's or Porsche's, is to make small, almost unnoticeable improvements over time. Do not change it too much. When you do have to make a big change, put it somewhere people will not immediately notice. With the new Speedmaster 3861, Omega followed that template exactly: minor tweaks to the case and dial, and the real attention on what is inside, a new Master Chronometer certified movement, the Calibre 3861, plus a redesigned bracelet that is, frankly, sublime. More on that later.
The Moonwatch has not had a major movement overhaul in a long time. Its last update came in 1996, with the calibre 1861, but that movement was essentially identical to the 861 from 1968. The co-axial calibre 3861, Master Chronometer certified, is the first real overhaul since the 321 gave way to the 861. More on the movement below.
The changes to the dial, bezel, and case are relatively minor. The biggest change is probably the bracelet, which was overdue, because the old one was starting to look dated. The new bracelet is a genuine darling, and together with the movement, it is what makes the 3861 worth the roughly 20% premium over the outgoing model. There is one thing about the bracelet that drives me a little crazy, which we will get to.
Minor changes: case, dial, bezel
As I said, the changes outside the movement and bracelet are minor. The famous Speedy tachymeter bezel was switched to a DON bezel, Dot Over Ninety, with the small dot sitting above the 90 mark rather than beside it, a nod to earlier Speedmasters. The dial got some subtle work too. The black is much more matte and grained than the previous generation. The minute track on the outer edge went from five divisions to three, matching the movement's beat. The chronograph and running-seconds registers are now stepped, which helps legibility. And the case was slimmed down a touch.
Major movement overhaul
The real news is the movement, the Omega co-axial calibre 3861. It is a Master Chronometer, which means it is certified by both COSC and METAS. COSC certifies Swiss chronometer movements as running within chronometer specs. METAS adds a whole battery of tests on top, including resistance to magnetic fields and rate stability at different points in the power reserve. This movement can shrug off magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, roughly what an MRI machine puts out. In other words, it has been put through the wringer and should give a lifetime of reliable timekeeping. For what it is worth, I have had this watch a month, and it is usually off by only a few seconds a week.
The big change: the bracelet
We all know the bracelet on the last Speedmaster was, well, lacking. It was not a bad bracelet, it just never rose to the greatness of the watch it was on. Omega heard us, and the replacement is a joy to wear. In my opinion it is a true game-changer. It is a five-link design with an aggressive taper, from 20mm at the lugs down to 15mm at the clasp. I have always ordered my straps this way, so I am glad to see brands leaning into aggressive tapers.
If I had to describe the bracelet in one word, it would be vintage fluidity. Fine, that is two words. It drapes beautifully on the wrist, and the taper adds both comfort and a bit of throwback style. The smaller, thinner clasp has banded finishing and an applied logo. One thing to note: the bracelet on the sapphire version has polished interlinks, while the Hesalite version's are brushed. Either way, the new bracelet makes this watch genuinely good for daily wear, year round.
I do have one gripe, and it is the clasp. There are only two micro-adjustment holes. Depending on the weather, my wrist swells or shrinks just enough that the current setting stops working. Add a link and it is too big, remove one and it is too small, and two holes are not always enough to escape that in-between spot. What bugs me most is that there was clearly room for two or three more. Oh Omega, why do you do this to us. On most days it is a non-issue, so I will stop whining.
The verdict
My dear readers, outside of the early 321 Speedmasters and maybe the new Ed White reissue, this is the one. You get everything you already love about the Speedmaster, now with a very accurate movement and an extremely comfortable bracelet. This can genuinely be your go-to. It has everything you want in a sports watch. The Hesalite version goes for $6,300, about 20% more than the previous reference, and rest assured it is more than a 20% improvement.
If you do pull the trigger, you will have to choose between Hesalite and sapphire. The Hesalite version has a solid caseback, while the sapphire version shows off the 3861 through a display back. If you are a die-hard like me, you will take the Hesalite and not mind polishing out the scuffs now and then.
And if you are on the fence, go try one on. You might be surprised how much these small tweaks add up.
A quick local note: if you are around Ashburn or elsewhere in Northern Virginia and would rather buy pre-owned than wait on an authorized dealer, we handle Speedmasters regularly. Come try one on, or see what is in stock in our Omega collection.
