Today we are talking about the Rolex Submariner, a watch that needs no introduction. We are going to run through a brief history of the no-date Submariners and tell you which version is our favorite. For the sake of brevity, we will start with the reference 5512, since it marks the next wave of Submariners after the very hard-to-find early references. The 5512 and the Subs that follow, other than the 5514 and 5517, are still within reach for most people, while the references before it are difficult and expensive to track down.
Rolex 5512: 1959 to 1978
The 5512 was a real departure in the look of the Submariner. Crown guards, or "shoulders," were added to the crown side of the case to protect the crown from knocks. On the early watches these shoulders were pyramid-shaped and came to points. Later ones were made with rounded shoulders.
The first few 5512s did not carry the chronometer text on the dial (Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified), and in fact were not chronometers at all. Later 5512s got a chronometer-certified caliber 1560 or 1570, with the chronometer text on the dial, the so-called four-line dial.
The 5512 was discontinued in 1978, while the 5513 carried on. It had a long production run, so there is a decent number of them on the second-hand market. Be aware that small differences in the dial can mean large differences in price. If you know what you are looking at, that can turn into a good deal.
Rolex 5513: 1962 to 1990
The 5513 arrived in the early 60s and ran for nearly 30 years. Most of the changes over that time were to the dial, though the bezel and bracelet evolved too.
We could write an entire article on the 5513's dial variations. To keep it short, the three main types are gilt, matte, and glossy. Compared to the 5512, the 5513 is much more common, and it never got the chronometer-certified versions the 5512 had. That certification is what created the four lines of text on the 5512, versus two on the 5513, and a lot of collectors prefer the cleaner two-line look of the 5513.
Rolex 5514 and 5517: 1972 to 1978
The 5514 is also known as the COMEX Submariner, made for Compagnie Maritime d'Expertise, a professional oil-diving company. These had a special helium escape valve. Fewer than 200 were made, so they are extremely rare and pull very high prices at auction.
The 5517, known as the MILSUB, was made in limited numbers for the Ministry of Defence. A few features set the military Subs apart from the civilian ones: fixed spring bars, a larger bezel, and, reportedly, a German-silver bezel that would dent on impact rather than crack or break. The MilSub is one of the priciest vintage Rolexes, thanks to very low production, estimated around 1,200, and serious historical weight.
Rolex 14060 and 14060M: 1990 to 2012
The 14060 can be seen as the bridge between the old and new Subs, and it is the last of the classic Submariners. It is a no-date. The date on the reference 1680 had been controversial, not so much for the date itself (the Sea-Dweller had carried one for a while) but for the Cyclops lens over it. Plenty of people, myself included, think the Cyclops ruins the symmetry of the dial.
The case is the last one before the Maxi case. It has that slender profile that fits almost any wrist. It is also the last model with lug holes, which are very handy for easy strap changes. The 14060 also traded the acrylic crystal for sapphire.
The 14060 was the first no-date Sub to have both a sapphire crystal and a Triplock crown, with a water resistance of 300m, up from the 5513's 200m. The caliber 1520 gave way to the more modern caliber 3000.
The 14060 seems to walk the fine line between modern and vintage really well, and prices are still very reasonable next to other models.
Rolex 114060: 2012 to 2020
In 2012 the no-date Submariner took a big leap with the 114060. It picked up many of the modern Rolex features we now take for granted: the Maxi case with Chromalight hour markers, a ceramic bezel, a blue Parachrom hairspring, and a bracelet with the Glidelock extension. The 114060 is where the modern no-date Submariner really begins.
To be clear, the Maxi case itself first appeared in 2005 on the new GMT-Master II, reference 116718. From there it moved to the Submariner Date, and it was not until 2012 that the no-date Submariner got it.
The Maxi case is the same 40mm across as before, but it wears completely differently. With beefier lugs, a wider bezel, and a thicker profile, it wears much larger. As mentioned, Chromalight blue lume replaced green Super-LumiNova, and Rolex says the blue is more visible at depth. The Glidelock clasp brought the ability to make micro-adjustments to the bracelet on the fly.
Rolex 124060: 2020
In 2020, the Submariner line got a set of subtle upgrades: an improved case profile, slimmer lugs, a better bracelet, and a new in-house movement. The case grew to 41mm from 40mm.
So which is our favorite? Honestly, it is a tie. We love the 14060 for how well it straddles modern and vintage, and for a case that fits almost any wrist. We are also forever fans of matte dials, so the 5513 fits the bill too, as a very accessible way into vintage Rolex. The ones with really nice crystals and creamy patina have a timeless look that will always be popular.
So there you have it, the most popular no-date Submariners from the 5512 onward. We have a feeling you will be happy with whichever you choose, especially with pre-owned Rolex prices continuing to climb.
If you are around Sterling or anywhere in Northern Virginia and are hunting for a no-date Submariner, whether a vintage 5513 or a modern 124060, come talk to us. We buy and sell certified pre-owned Rolex, so you can see a few side by side. Browse what is in stock in our Rolex collection.
